GREAT SWELL IN LA JOLLA!!!

Double overhead and pitching. Pretty walled up but makeable. I had a pretty gnarly barrel. And a pretty bad wipeout as well. There was an outside set and i barely made it under the first one and scraped over the second. Then i was in prime possition and everybody else was caught inside, people were hooting and i took off and pumped super hard, dodging a section that wasnt quite fittable, then it doubled up and this mutan thing popped up in front of me and i knew i had to pull in. I pulled in and had to grab the rail. Best barrel of my life. But the next wave i got, i took off to late but i stuck the air drop. It began to barell so i tryed to pull in but i hit a chop on my outside rail and wiped out hard. I was just wearing boardshorts and a rash gaurd. Well i hit the water and then the wave hit me. It pushed me deep down and it ripped my shirt off and then i hit the bottom... HARD. On my ribs. I came out of the water and i had to explain to my brothers why i was shirtless and they just lauphed. Left with a pricless image and a priceless cut on my throught from my shirt being ripped off. Good day.